The south-eastern hinterland of Sicily is dotted with perched villages that, with their baroque architecture, host an artistic heritage of great value, so much so that they have become part of the Unesco Heritage.
Ragusa, Modica and Noto (and not only!) Are real jewels in the heart of Sicily, full of charm. In short, getting in touch with the Sicilian baroque is certainly one of the experiences not to be missed on a trip to Sicily!
It’s possible to visit these beautiful cities in a few concentrated days, as they are not far from one another. It’s a pity, that this little corner of Italy is not valued as it deserves. In addition to the classic Ragusa, Modica and Noto, there are other destinations worthy of a visit but often overlooked by travel guides and of which you only get to know with the hospitable locals. This is the case of the Castello di Donnafugata, 20 km away from Ragusa, the movie set of Visconti “Il Gattopardo”, and the small baroque village of Scicli.We offer a short itinerary of 2 days to discover the Baroque Sicily: that you stop in Sicily only for a few days or that you have more time available, this itinerary can be a good idea from which to get a tip!
Here we are a 2 days travel itinery discovering the Sicilian baroque: it could be a good idea by being inspired!
• 1° stop: discovering Caltagirone
The starting point of our itinerary to discover the Baroque Sicily is Caltagirone, the city of ceramics. The most evocative and well-known site of Caltagirone is the monumental staircase of Santa Maria del Monte: from Piazza del Municipio there are a myriad of steps covered with colorful hand-painted majolica tiles, which lead up to the Church of Santa Maria del Monte, the highest point of the city. Along the flight of stairs there are small ateliers and some workshops where the artisans are intent on making and painting the famous “dark heads” and other ceramic artefacts.
• 2° stop: Ragusa in love
We leave Caltagirone in the early afternoon for Ragusa, a pearl in the heart of Sicily. The city is divided into two parts: Upper Ragusa, on top of a hill, is the modern and new part, where residents’ homes are concentrated; Ragusa Ibla encloses the historic center and is of most interest for the many Baroque palaces and squares. Start from “Ragusa Superiore” and follow the Salita Commendatore, a picturesque stairway of more than 300 steps that descends steeply into the lower part of the city and along which you will find palaces, churches and Baroque courtyards. During the downhill path you will come across maze-like lanes, some with no way out, limestone houses and churches, until you get to the pride of the historic center: Piazza del Duomo, the central square of Ragusa, where overlooking the sumptuous Cathedral of San Giorgio. Continue the descent and you will arrive at the Giardino Ibleo, ideal for a pleasant walk through the greenery.
• 3° stop: discovering Modica
We leave early in the morning from Ragusa to Modica, another beautiful baroque city that, like Ragusa, is perched on a hill. The main baroque buildings are scattered throughout the city and are mostly concentrated in the upper part. It is not immediate to orientate yourself to Modica and it is easy to get lost along the steep steps; the inhabitants of the place are very kind and ready to give advices, even on less known but no less suggestive places.
Start from Corso Umberto I, the main street of Modica Bassa, where the Cathedral of San Pietro is located at the top of a beautiful staircase. Take the narrow uphill path on the left side of the church and continue, following the steps, until you reach the Church of San Giorgio. Continue the climb to the highest point in the city, it’s worth it! There will be waiting for you a charming tree-lined staircase overlooking the Church of San Giovanni Evangelista and from which you can admire a beautiful view of the entire city. We cannot leave Modica until we have tasted the famous spicy chocolate, which has made the city famous beyond the ocean. We entrust them for tasting the Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, the oldest chocolate factory in Sicily. The shop is located in the lower part of the city and welcomes every visitor with a taste (free) of different variations of chocolate, from classic to vanilla to the most spicy and sought after. We fell in love with white pepper chocolate and stocked it!
• 4° stop: Noto with deviation to Portopalo and Capo Passero
From Modica we leave the hinterland and head towards the sea towards Portopalo, which welcomes us with a beautiful beach. Going through the end of the rocks it is possible to reach the Isola delle Correnti, a meeting point between the Ionian and the Mediterranean Sea which, despite its name, is bathed by a placid and transparent sea. The island enchants for its wild beauty! Not far away is Capo Passero, another beautiful beach with a transparent sea. We leave the sea in the afternoon and ride the scooter to the nearby Noto, a small and quiet baroque village, where we spend the evening walking along Corso Vittorio Emanuele, a long pedestrian boulevard lined with churches and baroque buildings.
Leave a reply